Wednesday, April 22, 2009

Italian Riviera, Here We Come


OK - so I glossed over a bunch of stuff in my last blog cause I wasn't sure when I'd get a chance to blog again. Well here I am so I'll back track for a bit.

Back to Venice. It was cool, no doubt about it but I think the space, or lack there off kinda whipped our ass a bit. Still beautiful and the dueling orchestra's on San Marco Plaza are still the things movies are made of - we certainly enjoyed ourselves. But the claustrophobia of it all kinda took its toll, especially after the open space of Lake Como. But hey, it was Venice and we loved it. We had a great dinner of tapas style foods our 1st night since we had a really late lunch. It was very cool, much like Spain, and allowed us to drink 1 euro glasses of house wine at about 5 different bars and sample their food, including calamari (1.50 euro for a plate you would pay 12 for in Texas), lobster claws (splurge at 3 Euros) and little sandwiches. So, after five bars (and as many glasses of wine) we decided to have dinner, which is what we were telling each other we were doing for the last 2 hours. We got a great, canal side table but had to share it with another couple since we didn't have reservations - and that's when the wheels very nearly came off the bus. The couple was French. Luckily, they were not asshole French, but the much more rare, nice and generous French. They ordered too much wine (something I thought impossible, especially for the French) and gave us about half a bottle....just what we needed. I have no idea how we found our hotel that night. Even sober, those of you that have been to Venice know what a maze the place is. Now try doing it blind and partly deaf (don't ask me but Erin doesn't hear so well when she's been drinking...) Still couldn't figure out what that damn smell was in our hotel.
Back to Sienna. We've realized that each place we've visited on our Honeymoon has outdone the last place in terms of our favorite meal. Sienna, our third stop, held that trend. We had dinner in an old converted wine cellar that looked more like a catacomb. We got a great table in the back and the wait staff was great. We started out with a complement from the chef - white lentil soup with olive oil...I know, it doesn't sound like much but both Erin and I were searching the menu for it since it came in a "bowl" the size of an espresso cup. For anti pasta, Erin had ribolita - which is just soup with breadcrumbs in it so theirs no broth...but that taste like something you'd slap your mother to eat. I had the meats and cheeses, which was all local and amazing. The fat in their salami melts like butter. LIKE BUTTER! For the prima pasta, Erin had a boar pasta dish. It tasted like hamburger helper if God came home after a long day at work a wanted to get dinner out for the archangels and all he has was hamburger helper...freaking amazing. I don't ever remember what I had, it was that good. We had a bottle of wine, that came highly recommended (our second of the night since the hotel we were staying at gave us a bottle upon checking it...which we promptly drank!) and the tiramisu, which was, by far and away, the best I've ever had in my life. Erin, who doesn't even like tiramisu that much, saw me take the last spoonful and I think she questioned her decision to marry me. We wobbled out, in the rain, and crashed. We picked up our car the next day and Erin got to experience me driving in Europe. Matt and Paul, you know what I'm talking about. I'm good, but you gota trust it first. It's scary enough driving in Italian traffic, but even scarier when you're new husband is doing his best to best them. Fun stuff. Erin threw up twice that day but only once the next day, which I feel is great progress. The Cooking Class, which Erin says is now "our thing", was really a highlight of the trip. The guy dug up a truffle the day we were set to meet him so he amended the menu accordingly. For those of you who haven't bought a black truffle in the market these days, they go for about $2,500/lb. That's not a misprint. At first, we thought he was translating for his wife but we soon realized he was just talking over her - which I thought was hilarious. However, as soon as the cooking started, she locked that shit down. At one point (when he really was translating for us) he started translating before she finished speaking and she grabbed his arm and in Italian, said: "hold your shit up and let me finish a goddamn sentence you conceited bastard". Now I don't speak Italian but I swear to you that's what she said. His chided look confirmed that as well. Plus, she was doing alright for her self (you know what I’m talking about fellas) and I think when push came to shove, he traded up. However, once the food was cooked, we (the guy, Erin and I) sat and she rarely did, spending most of her time bringing food to the table. I pointed this out to Erin but don't think she caught on...We'll see.
Back to Florence. We did our first day here on Monday, which is when some shops take off. They also take off from 1pm to 4pm or 4:30pm which really leaves Erin and I wondering when exactly the do work. It's worse than Spain or Mexico by far. And half the time they're late opening up again in the afternoon. One lady said she didn't know when she'd open cause she had to go by the post office....WFT?!?! We decided to do the countryside yesterday and spent most of the day in Greve (my old stomping grounds last time I was here) where we found the boots Erin wanted...thank god. We bought food again and I made another bang up meal before we both crashed early. I had the forethought to get pancetta yesterday at the butcher's and had pancetta and eggs this morning...un-freaking-believable. Bacon tastes like bologna compared to this.
We're headed to the coast tomorrow - the Italian Riviera. Erin will see the leaning tower of Pisa (any taker of the fact that when she sees it she says "huh, it really does lean"?) before we cruise down the road Princes Grace died on, the Movie Quantum of Solace lost 2 stunt drivers and where mopeds routinely take a very short drive off a tall cliff. Don't worry, I'll be good. We'll be staying in Santa Margerita Ligere, about 10 mins from Portofino. We'll do the Chinque Terre on Friday before heading back to Milan on Saturday so we can fly out Sunday. Oh, and we had the best gelato of our trip in Florence today. I had dark chocolate and Coffee while Erin had Apple and Lemon. Both were awesome. Oh, and we went by H&M so I'm sufficiently stocked on eurotrash cloths. Good times.
On a personal note, my family should note that my 19-year-old self would definitely not count my 29-year-old self as friend when it came to meals. There have been at least three dinners I couldn't finish and I've eaten a healthy amount of bread sticks. I'm going to trying and find the exact point on the Chinque Terre that I melted town 10 years ago because we weren't stopping for lunch. That should be fun.

Monday, April 20, 2009

Vini Verdecci is porno film???.....Gratzie!!!


Italians trip me out. Good people. Oh, and regardless of the title, there is no mention of porno film so those with sensitive eyes, feel free to keep reading...

Lake Como was awesome. Had some amazing bass right out of the lake our last night and took the boat over to Bellagio that day. We had nothing but sun. Beautiful and about 70 degrees.
We caught a train back Milan and then to Venice. Got to our hotel around 2pm and settled in. Sadly to say, compared to our last hotel, it was not as nice. The hotel was very beautiful but the staff was autonimitonic to say the least and there was a smell that started in the bathroom (both Erin and I deny being the source) that moved its way to the bedroom as our stay progressed. The next 2 days were a bit overcast but we still managed to get lost in the back streets (Matt and Paul, I was demoted several times and had the map taken away from me). We had an AWESOME dinner there that beat our top dinner to date in Lake Como. Muscles, clams, squid and other delicious fruiti di mare. The guy who owned the place was just one more glass of red wine (for Erin) away from convincing Erin to leave me for him. The guy had game, no doubt about it. Plus he was like 60...so unfair. Bastardo.
We caught a train out of Venice and down to Sienna where our hotel totally redeemed itself from Venice. Super nice and made reservations for us at a local farm for cooking classes. We met the guy about 10 clicks from his farm and followed him in. Super nice guy that was a Vet (the animal doctor, not war hero) that just farmed as a hobby. Erin and I called bullshit on a number of things but didn't change the fact that he was very nice and his wife, who couldn't speak a lick of English was a dynamite cook! She instructed and he translated and we tried, unsuccessfully to do what she said before the got pissed off and took over what we were doing. That worked out well cause we cause take a wine break then. We made two pastas, pork tenderloin (from his butchered, free-range pig) tiramisu, 3 kinds of wine, including a super Tuscan, fracaccia cheese and god knows what else. Everything except for the cheese and wine, we made. Very cool.
Erin loved Sienna and I was glad to go back to remember it a bit better. We picked up our car (Fiat Panda, rest assured, we have pictures) and headed north to our agriturismo which is nice. It rained on us the entire day yesterday but the sun is out today and Erin is getting a great look at the Tuscan landscape. Belisima! We're in Florence today (day trip) and will figure out tonight whether we come back tomorrow or the next day'.


Monday, April 13, 2009

The Honeymooners

Italy is how I remember it...which is a good thing. I still have to remind Erin to pick her jaw up off the floor. But I’m getting ahead of myself.

The hotel at DFW was awesome. We got upgraded to their Presidents Suite that had a bathroom bigger than our bedroom at home. Not to mention four chocolate, coconut, etc covered strawberries and a bottle of fine champagne! We ate the strawberries and sent the fine champagne back home with our cloths to enjoy another time. I also stole the soap and mouthwash. Hey, it’s a honeymoon but that doesn't mean I’m not going to take everything that’s not nailed down to the floor!

We got to JFK no problem and quickly made our way to our connecting gate to see if we could sweet talk the attendants into letting us sit in first class. Right as we got to the desk, she called my name. I have no idea why but we explained our situation and she promptly handed us two, first class tickets. I saw The Day The Earth Stood Still and was re-impressed just how badly Keanu Reaves sucks the talent out of any movie he’s in. He’s like an acting black hole. Not even the light of Jennifer Connelly can escape his gravitational suckiness. I also had the fillet minion while Erin had the tikka masala. I had a little order envy. I think I got a good 4 hours of sleep...Erin wasn’t so lucky. Neither of us has slept well for the last few nights and the previous night was no exception. We kept going over the wedding and how it played out which kept getting us worked up. We really did have a great time and feel like pretty much everyone else did too!

Milan Airport, at first glance, is a beast. Once you give it a second, it starts to make sense. We finally found the bus to the main train station and hoped the 12:20 train to Varrena on Lake Como and got to our hotel by 1:30. Erin (and I) was blown away by the Lake District which boarders Switzerland and is surrounded by the Alps. Our hotel is ancient and beautiful with some of the most amazing gardens Vie ever seen. When we talked into our room I thought they over did it with the potpourri but it turns our room overlooks the gardens and they smell amazing! We got Erin her second cup of Italian coffee (i.e. espresso) and her first Italian pizza (and her first "house wine"). Both were very much to her liking. We spent the rest of the day bumming around the lakeshore, introducing gelato to our diet (1st up - sour cherry!!!) and relaxing. We had dinner at a little cafe on the water and had homemade salami, dried lake fish, pumpkin gnocchi, and homemade ravioli...and a liter of their house wine. It was so much food I couldn’t finish it....

We stumbled (due to the lack of sleep more than to the house wine) back to our hotel and were asleep by 9:30. It’s been a great start to Italy and our honeymoon thus far. Can’t wait to blog about today later!